Walk into the office of any serious collector, and you will likely see it: a mesmerizing box with silent motors, gently spinning expensive timepieces in rhythmic circles. The Watch Winder.
It looks cool. It feels sophisticated. But in the horological community, it is one of the most debated accessories in existence.
Salesmen will tell you that a winder is “essential for the health of your movement”. Purists will tell you it causes unnecessary wear and tear. So, who is right? Do you actually need a machine to keep your automatic watches running when they aren’t on your wrist?
Here is the technical reality behind the myths.
❌ Myth #1: “If you don’t run it, the oil will gum up”.
The Truth: This advice is 50 years out of date.
Decades ago, watchmakers used natural animal-based oils and greases. If those sat still, they would indeed coagulate and “gum up”. Today, modern movements (even replicas) use high-tech synthetic lubricants (like Moebius oils). These do not coagulate. A modern watch can sit in a safe for a year and start up perfectly fine.
The “Car Engine” Analogy
Think of your automatic movement like a car engine. The gears and pinions are the transmission.
Using a Watch Winder: This is like leaving your car idling in the driveway all night just so it’s warm when you leave for work in the morning. Is it convenient? Yes. Does it put extra mileage on the engine? Absolutely.
Letting it Stop: This is like parking the car in the garage. The engine is off. There is zero wear and tear occurring. When you need it, you start it up.
Technically speaking, keeping a watch running constantly shortens the service interval.
When You SHOULD Buy a Winder
While winders aren’t “medically necessary” for the watch, they are incredibly useful tools for specific types of collectors. You should invest in one if:
1. You own “High Complications”
If you own a Perpetual Calendar (like a Patek Philippe) or a Moonphase with a complex setting mechanism, a winder is a lifesaver. If these watches stop, resetting the day, date, month, year, and moon cycle can take 20 minutes of frustration. Keeping them running ensures the calendar stays in sync.
2. You have a “Screw-Down” Crown Anxiety
Every time you unscrew the crown to set the time, you are putting stress on the crown threads and the rubber gaskets. Over time, cross-threading is a risk. If you have a vintage Rolex or a delicate diver that you wear once a week, keeping it on a winder means you never have to unscrew the crown, preserving the threads.
3. You value “Grab and Go”
If you are rushing to work in the morning, you don’t want to spend 2 minutes winding and setting your watch. A winder is a convenience luxury—it ensures your watch is always ready for action.
When You Should SKIP the Winder
Save your money if:
- You have a simple collection: If you own a Rolex Submariner or Explorer (no date or simple date), setting it takes 30 seconds. There is no need to keep it running 24/7.
- You have a large rotation: If you have 10 watches and you only wear a specific piece once a month, let it sleep. There is no point in putting 30 days of wear on the gears for 1 day of usage.
⚙️ Technical Note: TPD (Turns Per Day)
If you do buy a winder, do not buy a cheap $30 one. Cheap winders run constantly and can overwind the mainspring (engaging the slipping bridle too often), causing wear.
You need a programmable winder where you can set the TPD. Most Rolex movements need about 650 TPD. Anything more is overkill.
The Verdict
A watch winder is a convenience tool, not a maintenance tool.
- Buy one because you love the way it displays your watches.
- Buy one because you hate setting the date.
- Do not buy one because you think it makes the watch last longer. It doesn’t.
Need a watch worth displaying? Check out our latest arrivals of high-tier automatic timepieces.
